On the Way of St. James

Paul Coelho writes in his book "On the Way of St. James" that pilgrimage is a spiritual journey inwards. But what is the inside? Where do I end up when I travel there? This question is probably asked by all pilgrims who are thinking about setting off on the way for the first time. I also thought a lot about what the long-distance hike would change in me. I planned, pondered and planned some more. And then I didn't want to think anymore, I just wanted to set off. And that's what I did. In April, I left my hometown of Munich and walked across Austria, Switzerland and France to Santiago de Compostela in Spain.

You don't start such a long journey on foot without any doubts. Have I forgotten anything important? Do I really want to walk day after day for three and a half to four months? Will my shoes and feet be able to cope with the five million or so steps? But the longer I was on the road and the more daily stages I hiked, the further away all these thoughts flew. Over time, I became completely absorbed in the rhythm of my steps, was able to feel the sensuality of nature and concentrate completely on myself.

Shortly after I had conquered the highest point on my route, the Arlberg, I met an elderly lady in Klostertal. She must have recognized a pilgrim in me. She spoke to me and we got talking. I can still remember what she said to me later: "Whether an ordinary long-distance hike becomes a pilgrimage is decided solely by the person walking it. If you commit to it, a pilgrimage not only leads you to a special place, but above all to yourself." She then offered me a bed in her own house for the night. I accepted, happy not to have to look around first after the strenuous day's stage. I was served a delicious dinner at her farm - home-reared veal with traditional dumplings and vegetables from the garden outside the window. I hadn't eaten such a delicious meal for a long time. For dessert, we drank a good drop of wine together and tried mountain cheese from a Klostertal alp. The hardships of the last few days were forgotten after this meal.

I set off the next day feeling a little melancholy. But just a few days later, I met two other pilgrims who shared much of the rest of the route and interesting conversations with me. And at the end of the summer, I was standing in front of my destination, the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

Even today, I am still overwhelmed with emotion when I think back to this moment of my long journey. But if I could only choose one moment to relive, I would repeat the evening on the farm in Klostertal in Austria. The hospitality of the farmer and her family, the interesting conversations about God and the world and the wonderful regional food will stay with me forever. Because the Way of St. James continues to accompany you, even after your journey.